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  • When they bloom you get pretty and fragrant flowers

  • Exotic plant suitable for indoor or outdoor growth. Start or add to your own Hawaiian tropical garden!

  • Authentically 100% Hawaiian. Cuttings are from mature Hawaiian plumeria trees and packed in our nursery facilities on the Big Island of Hawaii

    • Our nursery is certified by the State of Hawaii Department of Agriculture and must adhere to strict regulations, so you can buy with confidence! Nearly 40 years in business!

  • Ideal for USDA Plant Zones 10 – 12 when outdoors

  • Thrives indoors in ALL USDA PLANT ZONES!

Hawaiian Plumeria Cuttings

  • From a cutting:

    Position the cutting VERTICALLY and plant it cut-side-down about 4" deep into porous sandy potting soil.  Place in direct sun.  Water until the planting media is soaked, then let the soil dry out before watering again.  Feed it with a general garden fertilizer or a timed-released fertilizer.  Ideal temperature range is 60℉ to 90℉.

    From a plant:

    If you bought plumeria as a growing plant, follow the same light, temperature, water and fertilizer instructions above.  Keep in mind that plumerias go dormant in the winter and "come back" in the spring. Translation: They will drop their leaves and look pretty much gone. As long as the stalk is not mushy, it's okay.

    When is a good time to replant? 

    This question arises quite often, so you're not alone in asking. If you purchase your plumeria as a growing plant, it comes in a four inch pot, and typically doesn't need to be replanted right away. You'll know it's time to replant however, once you begin to notice that your plumeria plant has taken root. Here is an example of what that will look like: 

    • Potting soil mix preparation
      • Use a mixture of 1 parts Perlite to 1 part potting mix WITHOUT fertilizer. The key is to have a well draining mix.
      • Moisten the potting mixture until it holds together but is not dripping water.
    • Fill a rooting tube or 1 gal pot (larger if needed for big cuttings) with lots of drain holes with the potting mix. 
      • Use one pot for each cutting
      • Or one rooting tube for each cutting
      • If using rooting tubes, place a cotton ball in the bottom so you will not lose soil.
      • You can use a large pot and place several in 1 pot. This is called gang rooting. It works well, but can cause damage to the roots when transplanting.
    • Make a hole 3" to 5” deep and a little bigger than the diameter of your cuttings in the center of each pot.
    • Watering you newly planted cutting
      • Use your finger or the handle of a trowel.
      • Insert the cutting in the hole.
      • Gently firm the soil around the cutting.
      • It is a good idea to use bamboo stakes to keep the cutting from moving. The slightest movement for wind or animals could break the newly formed root
      • Place your potted cutting in a warm location and move to full sun after a week or so of exposing it to more sun each day.
      • Water the pot or rooting tube well ONCE with water or a mix of water, Vitazyme and Carl Pool's Root Activator and do not water again until you see 3 or 4 full leaves.
      • Add more soil if needed.
      • Check the cuttings every week.
      • If the cutting seems to get dehydrated or shows wrinkles, then you should lightly mist every day until the wrinkles are gone or at least minimized watering, too much water on a rooting cutting will cause rot.
    • When your cutting has 3 to 4 full sized leaves your cutting typically will have roots. The more the leaves the more roots.
      • Fertilizing by misting the new leaves is a good idea. Use 1/2 strength for first time and spray early or late in the day, but not in full sun.
    • Depending on your location and weather, cutting will form good roots in about 45 days. In cooler areas it could take as long as 90 days. 
    • The reds are usually harder to root.


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